Epoisses — Cups to Grams

Measuring Epoisses: Density and Ripeness

Epoisses is unlike almost any other cheese in measuring terms: it behaves as a very thick, dense spread rather than a sliceable block. Ripeness dramatically affects both texture and measurable density — a young, just-released Epoisses is considerably firmer than one aged to full ripeness, which can be nearly liquid at the center.

Spreadable, standard ripeness (245g/cup): At this stage the paste holds its shape when scooped with a spoon but spreads easily at room temperature. Most Epoisses sold in cheese shops is at this stage — ripe but not running. The density is comparable to mascarpone or thick ricotta.

Scooped, very ripe (225g/cup): A fully ripe wheel pressed gently at the center is almost liquid inside. Scooping incorporates more air gaps, reducing the effective weight per cup by approximately 8%. This is the stage at which the cheese is most aromatic and flavorful.

The Washed-Rind Process: Marc de Bourgogne

The defining production step that separates Epoisses from other washed-rind cheeses is the washing agent. While most European washed-rind cheeses use brine (salt water), beer, or cider, Epoisses is washed specifically with Marc de Bourgogne — the Burgundian pomace brandy made from pressing the grape skins, seeds, and stems left after red wine fermentation.

The washing protocol begins with diluted brine and progresses over the 4–6 week affinage period to undiluted Marc de Bourgogne applied twice weekly. The alcohol concentration in undiluted Marc (typically 40–50% ABV) is high enough to prevent unwanted molds while feeding the Brevibacterium linens colony that gives Epoisses its characteristic reddish-orange rind and intense aroma. The Marc also contributes subtle grape and dried-fruit aromatic notes to the rind.

The PDO specification requires the Marc to originate from Burgundy — a geographical requirement that connects Epoisses to the same region's wine production. A standard 250g Epoisses wheel is washed approximately 12–15 times during affinage, consuming roughly 100ml of diluted washing solution per wash cycle.

History: Napoleon, Monastic Origins, and Near-Extinction

Epoisses has one of the most dramatic histories of any French cheese. Cistercian monks in the Burgundy region are credited with developing the washed-rind technique in the 16th century. The cheese was made by peasant farmers in the area around the village of Epoisses for centuries, gaining fame throughout Burgundy and beyond. The food writer and gastronome Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin described Epoisses as the king of all cheeses — a reputation that Napoleon Bonaparte apparently shared, reportedly ordering it shipped to Paris regularly during his campaigns.

By the mid-20th century, traditional production had nearly disappeared. The disruptions of two world wars, rural depopulation, and the difficulty of the labor-intensive washing process all contributed. By the 1950s only a handful of elderly farmwomen still made Epoisses using the traditional method. Robert and Simone Berthaut, recognizing the cheese was on the verge of extinction, began an intensive revival effort in 1956, eventually establishing Fromagerie Berthaut as the standard bearer. The cheese received AOC protection in 1991 and PDO status under European law — a direct result of the Berthaut effort that gives it protected status across the EU.

Cooking with Epoisses: Sauces, Pasta, and Gratins

Epoisses melts into remarkably silky, intensely savory sauces. The key principle: use less than you think you need, add at the end of cooking, and use low-to-moderate heat. High heat can make the proteins seize and create a grainy texture.

Epoisses cream pasta (2 servings): Saute 1 shallot (finely diced) in butter until soft (5 minutes). Add 150ml creme fraiche, bring to a gentle simmer. Add 100g Epoisses (about 6.5 tablespoons) in small pieces, stir gently until melted — approximately 2 minutes on low heat. Season sparingly (Epoisses is already quite salty). Toss with 200g cooked tagliatelle and a generous grind of black pepper. Garnish with fresh chives.

Epoisses-stuffed chicken (4 servings): Loosen the skin of 4 chicken thighs and insert 25g Epoisses under the skin of each. Season the outside, roast at 190 degrees C for 35–40 minutes. The cheese melts and bastes the meat from inside, producing extraordinarily juicy, flavorful thighs. Internal temperature should reach 74 degrees C.